The Science Behind Bōshi Nanofiber Skincare Technology

Bōshi nanofibers are manufactured through a patented ball electrospinning process with natural water-soluble polymers, resulting in a stable, efficacious skincare delivery system for a wide range of uses and product applications. 

More Stable & Efficacious Actives

Bōshi Pullulan and HA fibers containing Niacinamide were compared to a solution with identical composition. The amount of Niacinamide that penetrated into the AlternaSkin human reconstructed epidermis model was measured, as well as the % of the detected Niacinamide that passed through the epidermis. The figure below shows that a higher amount of Niacinamide penetrated into and through the epidermis using Bōshi fibers, compared to the solution.

4x More Powerful Vitamin C: The antioxidant activity of the Vitamin C in Bōshi Nanodrops is up to 4x more powerful than a traditional Vitamin C serum, per our DPPH assay results.

Bōshi Nanofiber Technology
Traditional Skincare Formulas

With Bōshi nanofibers, more of the active ingredient (in this case, niacinamide) can be detected in the epidermis and eluted fraction compared to the traditional formulation solution – providing an overall more significant impact on your customers’ skin health.

Formulating with Bōshi Nanofibers

Functional ingredients can be added directly to the polymer solutions and electrospun through our patented ball electrospinning process, leaving behind dry nonwoven nanofiber sheets with actives incorporated throughout. Active powders can also be added in between the dry fiber sheets, allowing for even greater stability of water-sensitive ingredients. Bōshi technology enables the use of new actives in a revolutionary product format.

Versatile Delivery System

With Bōshi nanofiber technology, you can formulate solutions that contain traditionally incompatible ingredients. Polymer nanofibers are collected as a sheet, and then those sheets can be layered to produce dissolvable nanosheets, with each layer containing a different functional ingredient. Each ingredient can remain isolated until the product is dissolved, just prior to application.

Phase Changing Formulas

Create Multi-Function Formulas by combining 2 or 3 beauty steps in a single, unique product. You can also add unstable ingredients in powder form between layers of Nanofiber.

Incorporating Oils

Bōshi nanofibers can be infused with oils either during the spinning process, which may require an emulsifier, or as a secondary process.

Why Bōshi?

Bōshi nanofiber skincare technology provides a perfect opportunity for formulators to create new and innovative products that are not possible with traditional cosmetic formulation technology.

Bōshi Benefits

Dry format can improve stability of actives

No additives or preservatives required

Water-sensitive actives can be easily incorporated

Extremely low water activity

Waterless, vegan and biodegradable

Dissolves instantly with water

Targeted applications with nanodots

Travel-friendly

Nanodrops provide the perfect dose for full face application

Bōshi FAQs

Here’s how we can work together to launch your own custom product with Bōshi nanofibers.

Initial penetration tests showed faster and deeper penetration of actives, in this case niacinamide, compared to a solution containing the same amount of each ingredient. 

Yes, oils are routinely added to the solution that creates the nanofibers.  However, there are limits to the overall percentage that can be used.

Many actives have been incorporated from L-ascorbic acid, mandelic acid, salicylic acid and niacinamide, to alpha arbutin and allantoin.  Powdered actives can be incorporated by putting the powder in the middle of the nanodrops, while actives in liquid form will need to be added to the polymer solution that is then electrospun.

Many polymers can be electrospun. For the cosmetic products we are developing, we are focusing on natural, water-soluble polymers, specifically Pullulan and Sodium Hyaluronate (HA).

Bōshi nanofiber masks have a higher concentration of active ingredients, providing a more effective delivery system compared to traditional nonwoven masks.

Yes, the polymers we use are both vegan and biodegradable; additionally, they are both polysaccharides that are made via fermentation.

The amount of water used with the nanodrops will affect the viscosity as well as the concentration of the active ingredient(s) in the dissolved solution. In order to have the best possible experience using Bōshi products, you should use the recommended amount of water, typically 8-10 drops for a nanodrop.

While the FDA does not define nanotechnology, in their guidance document they reference the definition adopted by the National Nanotechnology Initiative Program, which defines nanotechnology as “the understanding and control of matter at dimensions between approximately 1 and 100 nanometers, where unique phenomena enable novel applications”. Bōshi nanofibers have diameters of greater than 100 nm and less than ~1 micron, so while they are considered nanofibers according to industry accepted definitions, they would not fall into the category of nanotechnology. Link to full document.

Water insoluble particles that cannot be added to the polymer solution can be incorporated by placing them between the layers of nanofibers.

There are several benefits to having a water-free formula. Many actives will break down in water and lose efficacy; this problem is eliminated with a water-free formula. The product is more concentrated as the many fillers traditionally added to cosmetic formulations (pH stabilizers, rheology modifiers, etc.) are no longer necessary. Preservatives are typically not required due to the extremely low water activity. Lastly, less energy will be required to ship the products, as they do not contain any water, which can compose up to 85% of typical creams or lotions.

Absolutely. By adding such ingredients in powder form without any exposure to water prior to use, the stability of ingredients that are known to degrade in aqueous formulations can be increased, improving their efficacy.

Yes, the nanodrops can be fully biodegradable depending on the actives that are included.

The main solvent we are using is water, so this has not been an issue.

The RFM products have a shelf life of 3 years.  For custom formulas, stability will need to be completed in the final packaging to determine shelf life. 

Yes! Natural colorants can be added to create pastel colors of any hue.  Shimmers can also be added for that extra sparkle.

Create
with Bōshi

Ready to get started with a market-ready skincare solution – or to start your own project? Contact our team to start creating.